Exploring the Ancient City of Polonnaruwa: A Journey Through Sri Lanka's Glorious Past
Polonnaruwa, an ancient city in the North Central Province of Sri Lanka, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most well-preserved and significant archaeological treasures in the country. This historic capital is a testament to the grandeur of Sri Lanka’s medieval past, showcasing remarkable architecture, intricate carvings, and a sense of a bygone era that once flourished with vibrant culture, politics, and religious devotion.
In this article, we’ll delve deep into Polonnaruwa‘s history, explore the must-visit sites, and provide tips for travelers seeking to uncover the splendor of this incredible destination.
A Brief History of Polonnaruwa
Polonnaruwa was the second capital of Sri Lanka after the fall of Anuradhapura in the 11th century. Its rise to prominence began when King Vijayabahu I defeated the South Indian Chola invaders in 1070 CE and chose Polonnaruwa as the new capital, ushering in a new era of political stability. The golden age of Polonnaruwa came under the rule of King Parakramabahu I (1153-1186 CE), who led the kingdom to unparalleled prosperity, making it a center of commerce, agriculture, and culture.
The city flourished for over two centuries, becoming a hub of Buddhist learning and an architectural marvel before falling to South Indian invasions and eventually being abandoned. Today, Polonnaruwa stands as a testament to the ingenuity of its ancient builders and the spiritual depth of its religious monuments.
Key Attractions in Polonnaruwa
Polonnaruwa’s historical park is filled with ruins, monuments, temples, and other structures that tell the story of Sri Lanka’s medieval era. Here are some of the top sites that travelers should explore:
1. The Royal Palace Complex
The Royal Palace Complex, also known as the “Vijayanta Prasada,” was once a majestic residence. Built by King Parakramabahu I, the palace is believed to have stood seven stories high and consisted of numerous chambers and halls. Today, the remaining walls hint at the grandeur and scale of the building, with beautifully carved stone pillars and intricate details.
In the same area, you’ll find the Council Chamber, an elegant building adorned with detailed stonework and carved elephants. This space was used for royal meetings and decision-making, giving visitors a glimpse into the governance of the ancient kingdom.
2. Gal Vihara (Rock Temple)
Gal Vihara is one of Polonnaruwa’s most iconic and significant sites. It is a group of four magnificent Buddha statues carved into a single granite rock face, showcasing the artistic mastery of the time. The four statues include a massive seated Buddha, a smaller seated figure, a standing Buddha, and a reclining Buddha, which symbolizes the Buddha’s final moments before attaining Nirvana.
These sculptures are renowned for their serene expressions, fine details, and spiritual significance, reflecting the devotion and craftsmanship of the artists who created them during the reign of King Parakramabahu I.
3. The Quadrangle (Dalada Maluwa)
The Quadrangle, known locally as “Dalada Maluwa,” is a compact area that houses some of the most exquisite and well-preserved structures in Polonnaruwa. This sacred site includes the Vatadage, an elaborate circular relic house that once contained a sacred tooth relic of the Buddha. The Vatadage is a stunning example of ancient Sri Lankan architecture, with its intricately carved stone pillars, moonstone, and guard stones.
Within the Quadrangle, you’ll also find the Thuparama Image House, which contains a well-preserved stone statue of the Buddha, and the Hatadage, a shrine built to house the tooth relic. Each structure in this area holds historical and spiritual significance, making it a highlight for visitors.
4. Rankoth Vehera (Golden Pinnacle Stupa)
Rankoth Vehera, a massive stupa constructed during the reign of King Nissanka Malla, stands as a symbol of Polonnaruwa’s Buddhist heritage. The stupa, towering over the landscape, is the largest in the city and was originally gilded, giving it the name “Golden Pinnacle.” The simplicity and size of Rankoth Vehera are awe-inspiring, with four entrances leading to the stupa, each flanked by large stone Buddha images.
5. Parakrama Samudra (Sea of Parakrama)
The Parakrama Samudra, also known as the “Sea of Parakrama,” is a massive man-made reservoir that covers over 2,400 hectares. Built by King Parakramabahu I, this impressive feat of engineering served as an irrigation system, supplying water to the surrounding paddy fields and ensuring the kingdom’s agricultural prosperity. Today, the reservoir is a tranquil spot for birdwatching, enjoying sunsets, and observing local fishermen at work.
6. Lankatilaka Vihara
Lankatilaka Vihara is an ancient image house with a towering 14-meter-high Buddha statue. The building’s impressive facade, with its towering walls and intricate carvings, is a prime example of the architectural excellence that flourished in Polonnaruwa. Although the Buddha statue within the temple is now headless, the site remains a powerful symbol of devotion and artistry.
7. Kiri Vehera
Kiri Vehera is a white-domed stupa located near Lankatilaka Vihara. It is considered one of the most well-preserved and beautiful stupas in Polonnaruwa. The name “Kiri Vehera” translates to “Milk Stupa” due to its original gleaming white appearance. Built by King Parakramabahu’s queen, this serene site is a favorite among visitors for its simplicity and spiritual ambiance.
Exploring Polonnaruwa: A Traveler's Guide
If you’re planning a visit to Polonnaruwa, here are some essential tips to ensure a memorable and fulfilling experience:
1. Best Time to Visit
The ideal time to visit Polonnaruwa is during the dry season, from May to September. The weather is generally pleasant, with lower humidity and minimal rainfall, making it easier to explore the ruins comfortably. The monsoon season, from October to January, can bring heavy rains, while February to April tends to be hotter.
2. How to Get There
Polonnaruwa is approximately 200 kilometers from Colombo, the capital of Sri Lanka. Travelers can choose from several options to reach the city:
- By Bus: Buses run regularly from Colombo and other major cities to Polonnaruwa.
- By Train: There are train services available from Colombo to Polonnaruwa, offering scenic views of the countryside.
- By Car: Renting a car or hiring a private taxi is a convenient option for those who prefer a comfortable and flexible journey.
3. Exploring the Ruins
Polonnaruwa’s ancient city is vast, and renting a bicycle is a popular way to explore the ruins at your own pace. Alternatively, you can hire a tuk-tuk or take a guided tour to gain deeper insights into the history and significance of each site. The archaeological park is divided into several zones, so plan your visit to cover all the major attractions without feeling rushed.
4. Dress Code and Etiquette
As Polonnaruwa is a significant religious and cultural site, visitors should dress modestly, covering shoulders and knees. When visiting temples and sacred structures, remove your shoes and hats as a sign of respect. Remember to maintain a quiet and respectful demeanor, especially in areas of worship.
5. Photography Tips
Polonnaruwa is a paradise for photography enthusiasts, with its ancient ruins, stunning statues, and serene landscapes. Early mornings and late afternoons are the best times to capture the golden light and avoid crowds. Be mindful of the rules regarding photography inside certain temples and always ask permission before photographing locals.
The Cultural and Spiritual Significance of Polonnaruwa
Polonnaruwa is not just an archaeological marvel but also a living symbol of Sri Lanka’s cultural and spiritual heritage. The ancient city reflects the deep-rooted Buddhist traditions that have shaped the island’s history. The ruins stand as a testament to the kingdom’s devotion, with numerous temples, stupas, and statues dedicated to the Buddha.
The city also played a crucial role in the development of Sinhalese culture, language, and architecture. Its influences can be seen in the subsequent capitals of the country, highlighting the enduring legacy of Polonnaruwa’s golden age.
Preservation and Challenges
The preservation of Polonnaruwa’s ancient structures is an ongoing challenge, with threats such as weathering, human activity, and natural disasters posing risks to the integrity of the ruins. The Sri Lankan government, along with UNESCO and other international organizations, has made significant efforts to protect and restore the site. These initiatives include maintaining the archaeological park, promoting responsible tourism, and conducting conservation projects to ensure the longevity of this historical treasure.
Conclusion: A Journey Back in Time
Visiting Polonnaruwa is like stepping back in time to an era of royal grandeur, spiritual devotion, and architectural brilliance. The ancient city’s well-preserved ruins offer a unique window into Sri Lanka’s rich past, captivating travelers with tales of kings, conquests, and religious fervor. Whether you’re a history enthusiast, a cultural explorer, or a photography lover, Polonnaruwa is a destination that promises a profound and unforgettable experience.
So, pack your bags, lace up your walking shoes, and embark on a journey to explore the wonders of Polonnaruwa—a place where history comes alive and ancient stories are waiting to be discovered.